Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable body of water in the world, and La Paz is the highest city in the world, making our time in Bolivia a high altitude trip to the max.I don't remember ever being somewhere quite like this lake or city. First of all, it's really cold most of the time! We were there in summer, and it got cold enough that I wished I had brought my new snow jacket. I definitely wouldn't want to be there for winter! But at the same time, if the sun happens to peek from behind a cloud, you can get sunburnt instantaneously and viciously. So one day we took a hike in which it was pouring rain, I was wearing approximately five layers of clothing, and moving to keep warm. The next day on a hike, I got so fried I started to peel!
Anyways, another weird thing about the altitude is it really makes you feel weird. In the morning I would wake up and do a couple stretches, like I do every morning. Only here I would seriously have to go sit on the bed and focus on breathing to bring my heart rate back down! Walking up a hill or climbing a flight of stairs felt like an intense aerobic workout and always required some moments to catch your breath.
Of course, heat was a foreign concept, and "agua caliente" was always a dissapointment, so I pretty much spent our time in Bolivia being cold.
As I searched for restaurants that had fires in the stoves, I promised myself I would never visit a cold third world country ever again.
And the Bolivians....The cold and rain didn't seem to bother these hardy Incas, but then again, nothing really did. If you wanted to stay at their hotel or eat at their restaurant, that was fine with them, but it it was just as well if you weren't there. They weren't exactly the warmest and friendliest people I've met, but then again, I was too cold to be that friendly either.
So, the first day we arrived in Copacabana, after the whole border/bus driver debacle, Jordi eventually calmed me down and we hunted for a hotel. The good news about Bolivia is it's reeeally cheap. The bad news is that even when you are willing to pay extra for certain comforts, they were still not to be found.
Anyways, we found a decent dumpy hotel with a pretty friendly owner and camped out for three nights. Our first evening we spent taking lukewarm showers in the cold bathroom (miserable) and watching English TV in the room. What is it about watching TV when you're traveling? I get all excited to watch Friends or a 1990's rerun of Dawson's Creek that I would never care about otherwise. In fact, I had never even seen Dawson's Creek before this trip.
The next day we layered on clothes, drank some Nescafe in really cool thick clay mugs (all the plates and cups in Copacabana were made of clay. Most of the houses and buildings were too, for that matter...).
Anyways, we hiked to the top of hill nearby, wary of the pycho stray dogs (altitude makes them weirder also) and it began to rain. The view from the top was awesome - the Lake is huge and all the mountains surrounding are green and immense. The afternoon we spent relaxing and internetting, and we were excited when the sun came out later. We took a long walk along the lake, and went to a cute place for dinner, complete with numerous South American hippie traveling bands for our evening entertainment.
The next day we took a boat out to an island nearby called Isla de Luz. The island is approximately 10 miles away, you can see the trees growing on it from land. It took us an hour and half to get there. Apparently they save on fuel by going the rate at which I jog?
Anyways, we fiiiinally got there, and it turned into a beautiful day! We were told we would have to pay 20 Bolivianos (about 3 dollars) to tour the island as payment for upkeep. So we purchased a 10B pass, and expected two more 5B tolls. As we got to the top of one hill there was a family asking for 10B's, but the receipt they had only said 5B. We tried to argue it, but didn't have small change and so had to pay 10B's each. We ran into some other American's that said they only paid 5B each and the family yelled and chased them down the hill. But we were met by another 10 year old boy who also wanted a toll, this time we just walked on by. And again we were met by a lady who also wanted a 5B toll. I told her to collect it from the family on top of the hill, and we walked passed. What was this? Any kid or family could just set up a toll stop on the island?
Aside from that, it was GORGEOUS hike, and well worth it.
And the Bolivians....The cold and rain didn't seem to bother these hardy Incas, but then again, nothing really did. If you wanted to stay at their hotel or eat at their restaurant, that was fine with them, but it it was just as well if you weren't there. They weren't exactly the warmest and friendliest people I've met, but then again, I was too cold to be that friendly either.
So, the first day we arrived in Copacabana, after the whole border/bus driver debacle, Jordi eventually calmed me down and we hunted for a hotel. The good news about Bolivia is it's reeeally cheap. The bad news is that even when you are willing to pay extra for certain comforts, they were still not to be found.
Anyways, we found a decent dumpy hotel with a pretty friendly owner and camped out for three nights. Our first evening we spent taking lukewarm showers in the cold bathroom (miserable) and watching English TV in the room. What is it about watching TV when you're traveling? I get all excited to watch Friends or a 1990's rerun of Dawson's Creek that I would never care about otherwise. In fact, I had never even seen Dawson's Creek before this trip.
The next day we layered on clothes, drank some Nescafe in really cool thick clay mugs (all the plates and cups in Copacabana were made of clay. Most of the houses and buildings were too, for that matter...).
Anyways, we hiked to the top of hill nearby, wary of the pycho stray dogs (altitude makes them weirder also) and it began to rain. The view from the top was awesome - the Lake is huge and all the mountains surrounding are green and immense. The afternoon we spent relaxing and internetting, and we were excited when the sun came out later. We took a long walk along the lake, and went to a cute place for dinner, complete with numerous South American hippie traveling bands for our evening entertainment.
The next day we took a boat out to an island nearby called Isla de Luz. The island is approximately 10 miles away, you can see the trees growing on it from land. It took us an hour and half to get there. Apparently they save on fuel by going the rate at which I jog?
Anyways, we fiiiinally got there, and it turned into a beautiful day! We were told we would have to pay 20 Bolivianos (about 3 dollars) to tour the island as payment for upkeep. So we purchased a 10B pass, and expected two more 5B tolls. As we got to the top of one hill there was a family asking for 10B's, but the receipt they had only said 5B. We tried to argue it, but didn't have small change and so had to pay 10B's each. We ran into some other American's that said they only paid 5B each and the family yelled and chased them down the hill. But we were met by another 10 year old boy who also wanted a toll, this time we just walked on by. And again we were met by a lady who also wanted a 5B toll. I told her to collect it from the family on top of the hill, and we walked passed. What was this? Any kid or family could just set up a toll stop on the island?
Aside from that, it was GORGEOUS hike, and well worth it.We put-putted back for another hour and half before finally reaching the shore (reminded me of being in Hollywood traffic - where you can see the building you want to reach 40 minutes before you actually reach it).
Since the evening was still warm and sunny, we sat at one of the ubiquitous lakeside booths that served "trucha a la plancha" or grilled lake trout. The entire thing came out - eyes, tail, bones, you name it - but it was incredibly delicious and cheap!
Since the evening was still warm and sunny, we sat at one of the ubiquitous lakeside booths that served "trucha a la plancha" or grilled lake trout. The entire thing came out - eyes, tail, bones, you name it - but it was incredibly delicious and cheap!
A great ending to our time in Copcabana.
The next morning, we packed up, got our favorite fresh juices, and got on the 3 (but really 5) hour bus to La Paz - with a stop by the bus driver's buddy's business so everyone could get out and buy snacks, and another stop five minutes later to get gas, and a stop to cross part of the lake on a ferry, etc etc.
Entering La Paz was quite a trip, with red brick buildings cascading from the incredibly steep hills surrounding the city. The city feels old, with cobblestone streets, delapidated cathedrals, and unfinished buildings.
The next morning, we packed up, got our favorite fresh juices, and got on the 3 (but really 5) hour bus to La Paz - with a stop by the bus driver's buddy's business so everyone could get out and buy snacks, and another stop five minutes later to get gas, and a stop to cross part of the lake on a ferry, etc etc.
Entering La Paz was quite a trip, with red brick buildings cascading from the incredibly steep hills surrounding the city. The city feels old, with cobblestone streets, delapidated cathedrals, and unfinished buildings.
Our original plan had been to spend the night on the town and go to the airport at 1 a.m. for our 4 a.m. flight. However, I wasn't feeling good, and it didn't seem like the most inviting spot to go gallavanting after hours.
We ended up getting a hotel, for which I am extremely grateful, and sleeping for a few hours before continuing our trek to Santiago, Chile and Mendoza, Argentina.
We ended up getting a hotel, for which I am extremely grateful, and sleeping for a few hours before continuing our trek to Santiago, Chile and Mendoza, Argentina.
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