Argentina is a fabulous country. It's vast and beautiful, it has mountains, hills, plains and lakes. The food is good, the wine is good. The cities and towns look and feel European, and the architecture is in many places beautiful and impressive. The people are friendly, although hardly understandable with their almost Italian accents, dropping every other consonant and blending it all together with "jjjshh" sound. Our week in Mendoza and Buenos Aires was pretty much just plain fabulous. Very little drama, very little sickness, very much exploring and relaxing.
I was still a bit sick the first couple days in Mendoza, so was still living off of saltine crackers and Orange Soda (I have to say, I can't complain about the 'sick diet' - I actually quite like it).
Our second night in Mendoza, after a full day of meandering the streets, parks, plaza's and wistfully watching everyone else eat and drink at the countless sidewalk cafe's and restaurants, we decided we were feeling well enough to actually go out to eat. We went to a super nice sushi restaurant and successfully consumed Miso Soup :)
The next day was more walking through the leafy cobblestone streets, figuring out how to get our laundry done, figuring out how to get to Buenos Aires, finding new parks, and eating ice cream.

The day after was a Sunday, and we were planning on going wine tasting in the Mendoza vineyards I see so often on labels. We had heard that they were rather flat and not much to look at, not great compared to Napa or the Central Coast. But we figured if the wine was good, who cares about looks?
So Sunday morning, after our usual breakfast of incredibly sweet rolls spread with thick dulce de leche and washed down with some nescafe, we headed out to the bus station. We got on the bus and started bouncing down toward the town of Maipu, where most of the vineyards and olive orchards are. We bumped along through dirt roads and entered the small, dusty town. We got off in the middle of the town, and immediately noticed how deliciously quiet everything was. Hardly any cars going by, hardly any people about, and no business open (except the ice cream store, of course). I immediately found a park bench to lay down and soak up the sun and quiet.

Jordi looked in our guide book, where he read that everything closes on Sundays. Including Vineyards. So our grand plans of wine tasting in Mendoza suddenly morphed into a dream as I slept on the sunny park bench on a quiet Sunday morning. In all honesty, we weren't
that dissapointed because something about taking dusty, bumpy bus rides to and from dusty, albeit delicious vineyards, does something to hamper your wine tasting motivation. So we decided we'd have to make a trip to Napa to make up for it, and after our nap returned to Mendoza for some urban wine tasting. We went first to Park Hyatt, the biggest and most beautiful hotel in town, right on the main plaza. We sauntered in and found their extensive wine bar.

It was some pretty amazing wine, I will readily admit. I can't recall ever drinking a Malbec, but that's pretty much exclusively what Mendoza produces, and it's definitely a new favorite.
We then found an awesome bistro with a pretty garden area for some delicious lunch and more Malbec.
Unfortunately that night was our overnight bus ride, so we had to gather our stuff and troop to the bus station (It started to rain, and the station was miles away, but of course Jordi didn't think we needed a taxi. I thought about revolting, but figured I might as well get the exercise and utilize our backpacks...)
Unlike Bolivia, this time our seats did go back as far a the agency had promised, and there was an accessible bathroom as promised, and we even got food! The only bummer was a dubbed Adam Sandler movie. Of course it was a stupid movie that I probably didn't miss out on, but I cannot stand dubbing, and all the TV stations and even the bus just love dubbing. Argentina must have swarms of dubbing offices in order to produce all the hours of dubbing that goes on in that country.
Anyways, the trip was about as good as you can ask for, on a 13 hour bus ride.
We got into Buenos Aires in the morning, once again forgoing the luxurious taxi ride, and instead cramming in the subway with hundreds of other sweaty Argentines to get to the center of town.
We already picked out a hostel we wanted, and luckily they had room there. It was a big, old mansion that had been converted into a hostel called the Art Factory. Everything was painted, down to the water tower tanks, and there was a huge rooftop terrace with a kitchen/bar and hammocks.
Books, couches, free tang, and free internet kept us entertained after naps and showers.
We wandered around the cute San Telmo area, which used to be a rich neighborhood until a disease sent everyone running upriver, and the mansions of San Telmo became partitioned apartments and hotels for the artsy middle-class. All the streets were either cobblestoned, or paved over (you could still see the cobblestone) with lots of bakeries, ice cream stores, and parilla restaurants. We got lunch at a sidewalk cafe with leafy trees and a wide cobbled street. I thought I'd be daring and order a salad. Unfortunately, the dressing was definitely flavored mayonnaise, but oh well. At least the ice cream desert was amazing! :)
That night we went to a 'secret' bar where there was no sign or anything, you just ring the doorbell and are buzzed in. We then walked up some long dark steps until we reached the top floor which was a bustling little restaurant and bar, with a pool table in the back. We snagged a window seat, and got to look out over the street as we sipped our cold, cheap beers in the
warm, smokey room.
The next day we spent the whole day doing a walking tour of Central Buenos Aires. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we saw statues, parks, government buildings, theatres, the Presidential offices where Madonna sang in the movie Evita, monuments, pedestrian streets loaded with cafe's, an old mall from the 1800's, street tango, astounding cathedrals and more! It was an incredibly easy and fun city to walk around in, with soooo much to see! We stopped twice - once for cafe con leche in an old cafe with leather chairs and fantastic old waiters.

The other was for ice cream. I don't eat ice cream since it doesn't agree at all with my stomach and it usually isn't worth the calories to me. But oooooooh my gosh, this was the most incredible ice cream I have ever tasted in my entire life. It was so good that I ordered a big cone intending to share, but decided I most definitely wanted it all for myself after the first lick. It was so good that even though I felt horribly sick afterwards, I went back for more the next day. It was so good, that I didn't care about breakfast or lunch, I just wanted ice cream. Its so soft and rich and creamy, not at all icey or light. It comes in the most basic and the most exquisite of flavors. I can't tell you what flavors I ordered, since I just pointed at ones that looked good, but they were so amazing!! The flavors were so fresh and quality. Like the chocolate was made from the best chocolate and the strawberry was made from fresh strawberry and the other flavors were made from fresh ingredients, even though I don't know what those would be.....
Anyways, moral of the story is that if you go to Argentina, eat ice cream. In fact, I would suggest going to Argentina TO eat ice cream.
And the amazing thing is that all day long you see people eating ice cream cones, but they are never fat and this is probably because they walk everywhere! (sigh) If only California had better public transportation, and you didn't need a car to get everywhere :( Then we could all eat more ice cream.

That night we went to a Tango show, which was underground in the "oldest cafe in Buenos Aires" We sat at tiny tables, elbow to elbow with everyone else, sipping wine and eating bread while watching the loud tango show. It was very different from the Flamenco show we saw in Madrid, but still really fun and very impressive. I swear those girls have knees that bend both ways.
The next day was pouring rain, but still warm. We walked for a very long time to get to La Boca, a colorful Italian immigrant part of town that I have heard much about and was curious to see. Unfortunately it's incredibly touristy, and along with the colorful buildings and cobblestone streets, it felt more like Disneyland than a neighborhood! It was fun to see it though, although we didn't want to hang out there too long. We spent the second half of the day in swanky Palmero on the north side of town. This was SUCH a cute area!! The zoo, botanical gardens, and acres of park are all located in this area as well. There are tons of super cute shops, wider streets, and green leafy trees. It felt a little bit like being in France, or somewhere nice in Europe. We read about a good parilla restaurant in the neighborhood that we decided to check out. As soon as we started walking down Guatemala street and the restaurant sign read Don Julio (my beloved flute teacher) I knew this was going to be a good place. We stepped off the cobblestone into the bright yet cozy brick restaurant, walls covered with wine bottles and leather hides, and a huge Parilla grill front and center. We spent the rainy afternoon with a room full of other Argentines enjoying the amazing grilled meat, potatoes and more potatoes, and great Malbec.

It was by far the tastiest and most memorable meal we had treated ourselves to, and the bill came out to around $40 - not bad considering our steaks alone should have cost at least that! Argentina in general was obviously not as cheap as Bolivia but noticeably cheaper than the US.
Anyways, after wandering the adorable streets for a bit, we headed home on the subway. Our hostel was having live music, which we watched for a bit. Later we went out for one last heavenly ice cream, and then we had to pack our bags to leave early the next morning.
Now that our stomachs were finally feeling better and we were having such a grand time eating and exploring, it was sad to have to pack up and go. I would have much preferred to get some treats from the bakery and go see the famous cemetery at Recoleta the next day, but instead we had to take a taxi and three flights home.
Don't cry for me Argentinaaaa! (Although I might cry for you!)